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Thursday, July 20, 2017

The Champlain Canal

Whitehall, NY
36 miles. 6 locks



I walked into this tavern at a marina and saw it right away: a preposterously over-proportional chicken parm and pasta – whatever physical advancement that may have come from 9 hours / 36 miles of rowing is about to be obliterated … or at least neutralized.

It’s a testament to Kate’s sharing at Three Amigos last night that I got through the day on Nature Valley breakfast bars, fingers in the peanut butter, and lots and lots of fluids. Kate, that meal did the job it had to do … and possibly this Chicken Parm will step up as well.

Today’s rowing? After 8 more miles on the contrarian Hudson, I left the river and spent the rest of the day on the neutral waters of the Champlain Canal. Long stretches of perfectly straight waterway – four or five miles at a stretch with nary a turn – were dotted with lovely farms, friendly cows almost wading in to say hello, and narrower stretches bordered by 20’ granite walls. I had no fresh batteries for my radio, and the miles reeled by in a kind of languorous haze – lovely, really. I can’t believe I’m a day or two from a finish.



Well, between that last page and this page I dispatched a prodigious Chicken Parm. Don’t they say that you shouldn’t eat anything larger than your head?



I’m taking my chances sleeping (illegally) in a park tonight. I’m now out of the warm embrace of the lock system and will have to live by cunning and guile. The tent won’t go up until after dark – if it will go up at all – but it’s a lovely evening and if I’m under the stars, so be it.

Some industrial barges carrying stone and four or five chatty boaters were the extent of my social interface today … I will have to re-learn the art of conversation, perhaps? The discussions I have with myself on the boat, frequent and topically unpredictable, often end in a spat or one of us just leaving, but they do pass the time.  


When I last rowed this stretch – three or four years ago – sections of the canal hosted huge dredging barges and specialized equipment attending to the GE chemical waste mess near Fort Edward. Today, not a sign of any activity; all done, all clean? I saw a lot of people near the water and a lot of water toys and ladders on docks … but no one in the water. Is it safe?

Oh!! The TV here in the restaurant features a beaming OJ; a good day for him, too?

If I don’t get tossed into jail tonight, tomorrow I’ll head up the 20 miles or so to Ticonderoga … but I’ll camp across the lake in Vermont, at a boat ramp forever distinguished by Brian’s ‘Hasselhoff Moment’ as his fatigue compelled him to eat a cheeseburger while on all fours. (See ‘Row, Canada!’) Hasselhoff Point is a good starting point for the final push home on Saturday; Doug Livingston has consented to be my ‘wheel man’ as he’ll deliver the cart I’ll need to push my boat through Ticonderoga. Guys like Doug – unconditional and generous friends – make things happen!

Peg, thanks again for transcribing my sloppy journal; maybe post this page to remind the people of the magic of techno peasant and computer maven?

Sure thing, Al 


I’m going to pay my tab and go hang out in the park. Wish me luck?


Peace, love, and happiness  

And here's an adorable dog that wanted to join Al in the boat

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